From Fes to Marrakech: Three Days Across the Dunes of Merzouga
Camel tracks, cedar forests, and a sky so full of stars it feels alive—this is Morocco’s trans-desert classic.
Morning in Fes begins with the soft hustle of a city waking: the clink of tea glasses, the murmur of shopkeepers, the call to prayer feathering the air. Then the road takes over, arrowing south through the Middle Atlas where cedar forests stand like a patient audience and Barbary macaques scamper along the roadside, curious as you pass. The air cools and thins. Villages blink by. Somewhere past Ifrane’s alpine facades, the land opens and the horizon widens—an early hint that space will be the headline act on this trip.
Trail Wisdom
Wrap a Cheche (Scarf)
A cotton or lightweight wool scarf shields your face from sun and sand on camel treks and doubles as a warm layer at night.
Time the Light
Aim to be on a dune ridge 20 minutes before sunrise or sunset—the best color happens during the shoulder minutes, not just the moment the sun crosses the horizon.
Closed Shoes Beat Sandals
Wear breathable trail shoes or lightweight hikers to keep sand out and protect your feet on rocky roadside stops and hot surfaces.
Prepare for Mountain Curves
The Tizi n’Tichka pass is winding; if you get carsick, bring motion relief and sit forward in the vehicle.
Local Knowledge
Hidden Gems
- •Dayet Srij seasonal lake west of Merzouga, often visited by flamingos
- •Fossil workshops around Erfoud where you can see stone polishing and ancient specimens
Wildlife
Barbary macaques in the Middle Atlas near Azrou, Fennec fox tracks and desert beetles around dunes at night
Conservation Note
Dune ecosystems are fragile—stick to established camel paths, avoid off-track driving, and pack out all waste. Water is scarce; use it sparingly and carry a reusable bottle.
The Tafilalt oasis near Rissani was a key caravan hub and the cradle of Morocco’s Alaouite dynasty; kasbahs along the Dades and Skoura corridors guarded trade routes for centuries.
Seasonal Guide
spring
Best for: Mild daytime temps, Wildflowers in oases
Challenges: Occasional sandstorms, Cool nights
March–May brings comfortable days for long drives and dune walks, with crisp starry nights.
summer
Best for: Clear skies, Late-night stargazing
Challenges: Extreme midday heat, Dehydration risk
June–August can be very hot in Merzouga; plan activities at dawn and dusk and rest midday.
fall
Best for: Stable weather, Warm but manageable temps
Challenges: Dust haze after winds, Cold nights beginning late fall
September–November mirrors spring’s balance with fewer crowds and good road conditions.
winter
Best for: Crystal-clear night skies, Low crowds
Challenges: Near-freezing nights, Chance of snow over Atlas passes
December–February offers crisp days and very cold nights; pack warm layers and check road reports for mountain crossings.
Photographer's Notes
What to Bring
Lightweight Buff or ShemaghEssential
Protects from sun, wind, and blowing sand while adding warmth after dark.
Headlamp with Red ModeEssential
Navigating camp and photographing the night sky is easier with hands-free, low-impact light.
Electrolyte Tablets
Help maintain hydration during hot, dry days and long drives.
Power Bank (10,000+ mAh)Essential
Charging options can be limited at camp; keep cameras and phones powered.
Common Questions
How long is the camel ride in Merzouga?
Most sunset or sunrise rides into the desert camp take 45–90 minutes each way, depending on the camp location and conditions.
What should I pack for the desert camp?
Bring layers, a scarf, closed-toe shoes, headlamp, water bottle, and basic toiletries; bedding is typically provided by the camp.
Are vegetarian or vegan meals available?
Yes—most camps can prepare vegetarian meals with advance notice; vegan options may be limited but possible with prior request.
Is there cell service and Wi‑Fi in the dunes?
Signal is spotty to none inside Erg Chebbi; expect reliable service only in towns and along main roads. Camps may or may not have Wi‑Fi.
How cold does it get at night?
In winter, temperatures can dip near or below freezing; in other seasons nights are cool. Pack a warm layer year-round.
Can I bring a suitcase or only a small bag?
You can travel with a suitcase in the vehicle; for the camel transfer to camp, a smaller overnight bag is preferred for ease.
What to Pack
Wide-brim hat and high-SPF sunscreen: relentless sun exposure across open landscapes; Lightweight scarf/cheche: protection from sand and temperature swings; Closed-toe breathable shoes: sand and rocky stops make sandals impractical; Insulating layer (fleece or light down): desert nights are cold even after warm days.
Did You Know
Erg Chebbi’s dunes near Merzouga rise to roughly 150 meters and stretch about 28 km north–south—an iconic pocket of sand bordered by rocky hamada plains.
Quick Travel Tips
Carry at least 2 liters of water per person on the dune day; Notify your operator of dietary needs before departure; Keep small dirham notes for roadside snacks and tips; Pack motion-sickness remedies for the winding Tizi n’Tichka pass.
Local Flavor
Break the journey with a Rissani stop for medfouna (Amazigh ‘pizza’)—flaky bread stuffed with spiced meat or vegetables. In Khamlia, catch live Gnawa music and tea. Near Erfoud, sample fresh dates in season. Arriving in Marrakech, reward yourself with a rooftop tagine and a chilled citronnade overlooking the medina’s pulse.
Logistics Snapshot
Closest airports: Fes–Saïss (FEZ) at the start, Marrakech Menara (RAK) at the finish. Driving: Fes to Merzouga ~470 km (7–8 hours); Merzouga to Marrakech ~560 km via Tizi n’Tichka (9–10 hours with stops). Cell service: reliable on highways and in towns; limited to none in dunes. Permits: none required for this route; carry passport, cash for tips, and confirm camp details in advance.
Sustainability Note
The Sahara’s dune and oasis systems are delicate. Travel with refillable bottles, avoid single-use plastics, stay on established tracks, and choose operators that employ local guides and manage waste responsibly.
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