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Five Days Between the Skerries: Kayak & Wildcamp Sweden’s Saint Anna Archipelago

Five Days Between the Skerries: Kayak & Wildcamp Sweden’s Saint Anna Archipelago

A five-day sea-kayak traverse through Sweden’s maze of 6,000 islands—equal parts skill-building, solitude, and slow-burning wonder.

Söderköping, Östergötland County
By Eric Crews
water activities, camping overnight, wildlife natureAugustsummer

At dawn in the Saint Anna Archipelago, the Baltic breathes with you. A low swell shouldering the kayak, the sea whispers along granite ledges polished by ice and time. Gulls heckle from a skerry the size of a living room. Somewhere beyond the nearest fringe of islands, a white-tailed eagle rides a thermal, watching the lanes you’ll stitch between more than 6,000 islets over five days. The route is not a line; it’s a conversation. The channels tug, the wind negotiates, and you learn to listen.

Trail Wisdom

Read Wind and Fetch

Easterly winds build chop on the outer skerries—choose leeward lanes and shorter crossings when the Baltic starts shouldering your bow.

Pack Dry, Pack Light

Use multiple small dry bags to distribute weight in bow and stern; the kayak handles best when balanced and low on wind-catching bulk.

Practice Re-entries Early

Run a wet exit and re-entry on day one in sheltered water so the technique is ready if you capsize later in the trip.

Respect Allemansrätten

Wildcamp with care: pitch on durable surfaces, keep distance from homes and nesting islets, and leave the slab cleaner than you found it.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Ämtö Nature Reserve’s smooth granite slabs for sunset bivies
  • The outer Missjö skerries at dawn when the seals surface and the wind rests

Wildlife

Grey seal, White-tailed sea eagle

Conservation Note

Many islets are seasonal bird sanctuaries—observe closures and avoid landing near nesting colonies. Pack out all waste and minimize campfire use on sensitive rock.

The Saint Anna and neighboring Gryt archipelagos formed as ice retreated 10,000 years ago, exposing scoured granite and gneiss. Generations of fishers and pilots navigated these lanes long before modern markers.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Migratory birdlife, Cool-weather paddling

Challenges: Cold water, Unsettled wind patterns

Late April–May brings crisp air, long daylight, and spectacular bird activity. Dry suits or robust layers are recommended as the Baltic stays cold.

summer

Best for: Long daylight, Warmer water

Challenges: Mosquitoes on wooded islands, Busy weekends near mainland

June–August delivers stable weather, warmest water temps, and late sunsets for unhurried camp life. Outer skerries offer breeze and fewer bugs.

fall

Best for: Quiet camps, Golden light

Challenges: Shorter days, Stronger storms

September rewards with solitude and luminous sunsets. Expect cooler nights and pack extra insulation and a storm-ready mindset.

winter

Best for: Expert expeditions, Absolute solitude

Challenges: Frigid water, Limited daylight, Icing risk

Not typical for recreational trips; only advanced paddlers with proper gear and local knowledge should attempt winter sea kayaking here.

Photographer's Notes

Shoot low from the cockpit to exaggerate the skerry skyline and add leading lines with your bow. Polarizing filters cut glare off the water; golden hour lasts long in summer—use it to backlight sea spray and silhouette eagles. Bring a dry bag for camera gear and a microfiber cloth to fight Baltic mist.

What to Bring

Assorted Dry Bags (5–20L)Essential

Multiple sizes keep sleeping gear, clothing, and food separated and dry while balancing weight in the kayak.

Lightweight Synthetic Layers + Wind ShellEssential

Moisture-wicking base layers and a windproof shell manage cool breezes and variable spring/fall weather.

Neoprene Booties or Sturdy Water ShoesEssential

Protect feet during rocky launches and provide grip on wet granite slabs at camp.

Sun Protection Kit (Hat, Sunglasses, SPF 50, Lip Balm)Essential

Open water reflects sun—shield your skin and eyes during long, bright paddling days.

Common Questions

How far will we paddle each day?

Expect roughly 10–20 km per day depending on wind, sea state, and group goals, with breaks on sheltered islets.

Do I need prior sea kayaking experience?

Basic paddling fitness is important, and guides will teach and refresh essential techniques, including wet exits and assisted re-entries.

What is the camping like?

You’ll wildcamp on rock slabs and forest duff, cooking simple, hearty meals as a team and practicing Leave No Trace under Allemansrätten.

Will we see wildlife?

Common sightings include grey seals, eiders, oystercatchers, and white-tailed sea eagles. Keep respectful distances, especially near nesting islets.

Is the Baltic Sea salty?

The Baltic is brackish with low salinity, which slightly reduces buoyancy and can feel different from ocean paddling.

What happens in bad weather?

Routes adjust to conditions—guides choose leeward channels, shorten crossings, or pause travel until winds ease to keep the group safe.

What to Pack

1) Multiple small dry bags to keep gear watertight and properly trimmed in the kayak. 2) Quick-dry layers and a windproof shell for variable coastal weather. 3) Neoprene booties or water shoes for rocky launches and slick granite. 4) Sun kit (hat, polarized sunglasses, reef-safe SPF) for long reflective days on open water.

Did You Know

The Saint Anna and Gryt archipelagos comprise roughly 6,000 islands and skerries—one of Europe’s most densely clustered archipelago systems—shaped by retreating glaciers after the last Ice Age.

Quick Travel Tips

Fly into Stockholm Skavsta (NYO) or Arlanda (ARN) and rent a car for flexible access to launch sites. Bring a lightweight bug net for calm, wooded camps in midsummer. Download offline charts/maps; cell service can drop between outer islets. Carry a backup water treatment method for longer stretches between natural sources.

Local Flavor

Before or after your paddle, wander Söderköping’s cobbled lanes for a waterfront fika by the Göta Canal and a towering ice cream at the beloved local glassbar. Seek out a small smokehouse for hot-smoked Baltic herring or salmon, and cap the trip with a craft beer in Norrköping’s old industrial district turned cultural quarter.

Logistics Snapshot

Closest airports: Stockholm Skavsta (NYO, ~1.5–2 hrs by car) or Stockholm Arlanda (ARN, ~2.5–3 hrs). Typical launch points lie southeast of Söderköping in the Saint Anna islands. Expect patchy cell service among outer skerries. No permits required for wildcamping under Allemansrätten, but observe seasonal bird sanctuary closures and local signage.

Sustainability Note

This brackish archipelago is sensitive to disturbance—use existing tent pads on rock, avoid soap near the sea, keep clear of seal haul-outs, and adhere to seasonal bird protections. Pack out all waste and minimize fire scars on granite.

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