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Banff in 48 Hours: Canyon Boardwalks, Sky-High Gondolas, and the Columbia Icefield

Banff in 48 Hours: Canyon Boardwalks, Sky-High Gondolas, and the Columbia Icefield

Two days, three shades of blue, and a glacier that breathes cold under your boots.

Banff, Alberta
By Eric Crews
land adventures, wildlife nature, aerial adventuresSeptembersummer

Morning fog clings to the Bow Valley like a secret as the bus pulls into Johnston Canyon. The air is crisp—pine sharp, river cold—and the canyon’s limestone walls hum with the sound of meltwater pushing forward. You step onto the catwalk and the gorge narrows, inviting you to follow the blue churn as it flashes around tight corners. The Lower Falls arrive with a flourish, a curtain of white daring you to duck into the short tunnel for a face-full of spray. If legs are willing, the Upper Falls wait farther up, the canyon growing more intricate as it cuts through the Rockies’ ancient reef—limestone born in warm seas, now hoisted into a world where ravens patrol and water rules. This is how a two-day sprint through Banff and the Columbia Icefield begins: close to the rock, close to the river’s stubborn heart.

Trail Wisdom

Beat Johnston Canyon Crowds

Arrive early for parking and elbow room on the catwalks; Bow Valley Parkway (Hwy 1A) can have seasonal vehicle restrictions—check Parks Canada before you go.

Dress for the Glacier, Not the Town

Even in summer, the Athabasca Glacier feels near-freezing with wind. Pack a warm layer, hat, gloves, and closed-toe footwear with good grip.

Book the Banff Gondola Ahead

Timed tickets help you avoid lines; wind can affect operations, so build buffer time into the day.

Respect Wildlife Space

Keep 30 m from elk and 100 m from bears, never feed animals, and store snacks securely—fines and safety risks are real.

Local Knowledge

Hidden Gems

  • Vermilion Lakes pullouts for sunrise reflections with Mount Rundle
  • Early-morning Bow Summit for a quiet Peyto Lake viewpoint before tour buses arrive

Wildlife

Elk in the Bow Valley meadows, Mountain goats on cliff bands near the Icefields Parkway

Conservation Note

Stay on boardwalks in Johnston Canyon to protect fragile limestone and moss habitats; give wildlife space and pack out everything—glacial and alpine ecosystems are slow to heal.

Banff became Canada’s first national park in 1885, and the Icefields Parkway—completed in 1940—linked glacial valleys and towns, shaping tourism and conservation in the region.

Seasonal Guide

spring

Best for: Rushing waterfalls, Quieter trails

Challenges: Icy boardwalks in shade, Unpredictable snow, Bow Valley Parkway restrictions

Snow lingers in the trees while meltwater surges through the canyon. Bring traction and layers for variable conditions.

summer

Best for: Full access to Icefields Parkway, Long daylight hours, Stable weather

Challenges: Peak crowds, Strong sun on ice, Wildfire smoke potential

The marquee season: everything’s open, lakes glow turquoise, and the glacier is accessible—start early to stay ahead of the rush.

fall

Best for: Crisp air and clear views, Wildlife sightings at dawn/dusk

Challenges: Early snow at elevation, Shorter days, Some services reduced

Cooler temperatures sharpen the horizons. Expect frosty mornings and bring extra layers for the glacier.

winter

Best for: Snowy summit views via gondola, Quiet town vibes

Challenges: Icefields Parkway closures, Extreme cold, Limited glacier operations

The tour may not operate in full; if visiting, plan for deep winter conditions and check road statuses daily.

Photographer's Notes

Arrive early for Johnston Canyon to avoid crowds in your frame; use a circular polarizer to tame glare on turquoise lakes and wet rock. At Peyto, go wide (16–24mm) to capture the lake’s wolf-head shape, then switch to a 70–200mm for glacier textures on distant peaks. On the glacier, expose for the highlights to preserve detail in bright snow; a microfiber cloth helps with mist and spray. Golden hour at Surprise Corner delivers warm light on Banff’s castle-like hotel with Mount Rundle stacking the scene.

What to Bring

Waterproof Hiking Shoes or BootsEssential

Boardwalks can be wet and glacier surfaces slick—good traction matters.

Breathable Rain ShellEssential

Mountain weather turns fast; a lightweight shell blocks wind and surprise showers.

Insulated Midlayer (Fleece or Light Down)Essential

The glacier is cold year-round; a warm layer keeps you comfortable out on the ice.

Polarized SunglassesEssential

Glare off snow, ice, and bright lakes can be intense—protect your eyes and improve color contrast.

Common Questions

Do I need a Parks Canada Pass for this trip?

Yes. A valid Parks Canada Pass is required for visiting Banff National Park and driving the park roads. Buy online in advance or at park gates and visitor centers.

How strenuous is Johnston Canyon?

Lower Falls is about 2.4 km round-trip on a mostly flat catwalk; Upper Falls is roughly 5.4 km round-trip with moderate elevation gain. Surfaces can be slippery in shoulder seasons.

What should I wear on the Athabasca Glacier?

Closed-toe shoes with good grip, warm layers, a windproof shell, hat, and gloves. Sunglasses are essential due to bright glare.

Are meals included on this two-day tour?

Meals are typically on your own with time built in to eat in Banff and at highway stops (like the Glacier Discovery Centre). Review your confirmation to see what, if anything, is included.

Is the Ice Explorer experience accessible for travelers with limited mobility?

Accessibility varies. The Glacier Discovery Centre and some viewpoints are accessible, but boarding the Ice Explorer usually involves steps. Contact the operator in advance to discuss options.

Can families with kids join?

Yes. It’s family-friendly with short walks and scenic stops. Strollers aren’t ideal on canyon boardwalks, and children should be dressed warmly for the glacier. Check child policies with the tour operator.

What to Pack

1) Layered clothing including a warm midlayer—temperatures swing from valley warmth to glacier chill. 2) Waterproof hiking shoes—boardwalks and ice can be slick. 3) Sunglasses and sunscreen—the high-elevation sun and ice glare are intense. 4) 1–2L water bottle—dry mountain air dehydrates faster than you think.

Did You Know

The Columbia Icefield is a rare triple Continental Divide where meltwater flows toward the Pacific, Arctic, and Atlantic (via Hudson Bay) Oceans.

Quick Travel Tips

Book gondola and Ice Explorer times in advance; start Johnston Canyon early to beat crowds; carry a Parks Canada Pass on your dashboard; check Bow Valley Parkway seasonal access before you go.

Local Flavor

Post-adventure, grab campfire-inspired cocktails and rotisserie chicken at Park Distillery & Restaurant or sample wood-fired pizzas and local pours at Three Bears Brewery. For a quick morning fuel-up, Wild Flour Bakery’s fresh pastries and strong coffee are Banff staples.

Logistics Snapshot

Closest airport: Calgary International (YYC). Starting point: Calgary, then into Banff; Johnston Canyon trailhead on Bow Valley Parkway (Hwy 1A). Drive time: ~1.5 hours Calgary to Banff. Cell service: Spotty along the Icefields Parkway. Permits: Parks Canada Pass required; check seasonal road restrictions and book gondola/Ice Explorer in advance.

Sustainability Note

These routes traverse critical wildlife corridors and fragile glacial terrain. Stick to designated paths, never approach or feed wildlife, and minimize idling at viewpoints—silence is part of the habitat.

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